Excavating medieval Eilean Donan / A’ cladhach Eilean Donnain Meadhan-aoiseil

Eilean Donan in Wester Ross is an iconic site. It's one of the most instantly recognisable and photographed castles in Scotland. 

Situated in a breathtaking land- and sea-scape in north-west Scotland, Eilean Donan was a powerful place in the medieval period. But by the 18th century, the site was in ruins. In the early 20th century an ambitious rebuilding campaign transformed Eilean Donan into the castle we know today. Much about Eilean Donan during its medieval heyday remained unknown. But thanks to archaeological excavations, medieval Eilean Donan is now better understood than ever before.  

’S e làrach shuaicheanta a th’ ann an Eilean Donnain ann an Ros an Iar. ’S e aon de na caistealan Albannach as aithnichte agus as tric a chithear ann an dealbhan. Suidhichte ann an cruth-tìre is mara iongantach ann an iar-thuath na h-Alba, bha Eilean Donnain na àite cumhachdach anns na meadhan-aoisean. Ach mu thoiseach an 18mh linn, cha robh air fhàgail dheth ach tobhta.  Tràth san 20mh linn, thòisich iomairt ath-thogail àrd-amasach aig Eilean Donnain a dh’atharraich e chun riochd a th’ againn an-diugh.  Bha mòran air nach robh fios againn mu Eilean Donnain nuair a bha e aig àirde a ghlòir anns na meadhan-aoisean.  Ach às dèidh cladhach arc-eòlais, tha sinn a-nis a’ tuigsinn mòran a bharrachd mu Eilean Donnain meadhan-aoiseil. 

Fantastic finds shed light on the people that lived and worked in the medieval castle, from the kitchens and the smithy to the earl’s household. Eilean Donan was a site for music, hunting, fighting, fishing, gaming and craftworking. Archaeological evidence brought the medieval culture of the Gàidhealtachd (traditionally Gaelic-speaking areas of Scotland) to life.  

The medieval Earldom of Ross was vast, stretching from the Firths of Cromarty and Beauly in the east of Scotland to the lordship of Skye in the west. From the early 13th century until 1475, Eilean Donan was the symbolic and administrative centre of the lordship of Kintail, part of the earldom of Ross. Eilean Donan occupied a key position within this territory. It sits opposite the Isle of Skye and at the meeting point of three great sea lochs – Loch Aillse (Loch Alsh), Loch Dubhthaich (Loch Duich) and Loch Long. This was a strategically important location, controlling the north–south navigation along the coast. This included access to the An Linne Shlèiteach (the Sound of Sleat), the haven at Loch Aillse and to the Inner Sound between An t-Eilean Sgitheanach (the Isle of Skye) and the mainland. 

From this base, the Earls of Ross pushed west into Man and the Isles, competing  with the Mhic Domhnaill (MacDonald) kings of Argyll and the Godredsson kings of the Isles. Eilean Donan was also a key link across the Earldom of Ross. It had connections over land via Gleann Afraig (Glen Affric) and Gleann Urchadain (Glen Urquhart) to the eastern seaboard of Scotland.   

Tha na rudan mìorbhaileach a lorgadh sa chladhach ag innse mu na daoine a bha a’ fuireach agus ag obair anns a’ chaisteal sna meadhan-aoisean, bho na cidsinean agus a’ cheàrdaich gu fàrdach an iarla. B’ e àite airson ceòl, sealg, sabaid, iasgach, geamannan agus obair-làimhe a bh’ ann an Eilean Donnain. Thug fianais arc-eòlach cultar meadhan-aoiseil na Gàidhealtachd beò. 

Bha Iarlachd Rois anns na meadhan-aoisean anabarrach mòr, a’ sìneadh bho Chaolas Chromba agus Linne Fharair ann an taobh sear na h-Alba gu tighearnas an Eilein Sgitheanaich san taobh siar. Bho thoiseach an 13mh linn gu 1475, b’ e Eilean Donnain cridhe samhlachail is rianachd tighearnas Chinn t-Sàile, pàirt de dh’iarlachd Rois. Bha Eilean Donnain ann an àite cudromach anns na sgìre seo. Tha e suidhichte mu choinneamh an Eilein Sgitheanaich agus aig àite coinneachaidh trì lochan-mara mòra – Loch Aillse, Loch Dubhthaich agus Loch Long. B’ e seo àite cudromach gu ro-innleachdail, a’ cumail smachd air an t-slighe mara bho thuath gu deas air feadh na h-oirthire. Bha seo a’ gabhail a-steach an t-slighe a-steach don Linne Shlèiteach, an caladh aig Loch Aillse agus chun na Linne a-staigh eadar an t-Eilean Sgitheanach agus tìr-mòr. Às a’ bhunait seo, b' urrainn do dh’Iarlan Rois a dhol chun iar a dh’Eilean Mhanainn agus na h-Eileanan, a’ farpais ri Clann MhicDhòmhnaill a bha nan rìghrean air Earra-Ghàidheal, agus ri rìghrean Godredsson nan Eilean.  Bha Eilean Donnain cuideachd na àite-ceangail cudromach thar Iarlachd Rois. Bha ceanglaichean tìre aige tro Ghleann Afraig agus Gleann Urchadain gu oirthir an ear na h-Alba. 

At the height of its importance between the 13th and 14th centuries, Eilean Donan was one of the largest castles in the region. It had seven towers, and massive curtain walls. Little of the medieval castle remains visible today, however. The site was transformed in the early 20th century by castle’s owner (Lieutenant-Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap) and his carpenter-in-chief (Farquhar Macrae).   

Aig àirde a neirt eadar an 13mh agus an 14mh linn, b’ e Eilean Donnain aon de na caistealan as motha san sgìre. Bha seachd tùir ann, agus ballachan-cùirteir anabarrach mòra. Ach, chan eil mòran den chaisteal mheadhan-aoiseil ri fhaicinn an-diugh. Chaidh an làrach atharrachadh gu mòr tràth san 20mh linn le neach-seilbh a’ chaisteil (Leifteanant-Còirneal Iain MacRath-Gilstrap) agus a phrìomh shaor (Fearchar MacRath). 

As well as recreating part of the castle, a stone bridge was built to make access to the tidal island easier. Remains of the medieval Great Tower formed the core of the 1920s rebuilding campaign. They still lie at the heart of the buildings standing today. The rebuilt castle was much smaller than the original fortification and archaeological remains survive underground to the north of the island. Excavations located the substantial medieval northwest tower, the northern and western curtain walls, and the remains of buildings in the inner castle ward.  

A bharrachd air pàirt den chaisteal ath-chruthachadh, chaidh drochaid chloiche a thogail gus a dhèanamh nas fhasa faighinn chun an eilean-tràghaidh. Bha fuigheall an Tùir Mhòir mheadhan-aoiseil aig cridhe iomairt ath-thogail nan 1920an. Tha e fhathast aig cridhe nan togalaichean a tha ann an-diugh. Às dèidh ath-thogail, bha an caisteal mòran nas lugha na an daingneach tùsail agus tha fuigheallan àrc-eòlais fhathast fon talamh aig ceann a tuath an eilein. Lorg cladhach an tùr iar-thuath meadhan-aoiseil mòr, na ballachan-cùirteir tuath is siar, agus fuigheall thogalaichean ann an taobh a-staigh nam ballachan.  

Medieval castles were much more than places of strategic importance. People of all social levels gathered, worked and lived at places like Eilean Donan. This included seannachies (storytellers), smiths, poets, servants and law-givers. The castle was staffed year-round, but the earls were part-time occupants, and spent time at each of their castles. The household would swell when the earl’s family was in residence. They would have larger gatherings, legal proceedings, feasting and celebrations, making the castle a busy place. Finds from archaeological excavations give a rich and fascinating picture of life at Eilean Donan. They provide valuable information about how people lived and worked. Animal bone excavated from the site shows that venison was eaten, and hunting dogs were kept at the castle. Oats, beef and lamb were also a steady part of the diet.    

There is a wealth of evidence for the production of metal objects at the site. Many fragments of clay vessels called crucibles have been recovered from buildings inside the castle perimeter.

Bha caistealan meadhan-aoiseil fada a bharrachd air dìreach àiteachan cudromach ro-innleachdail. Bha daoine de gach ìre shòisealta a’ tighinn còmhla, ag obair agus a’ fuireach ann an àiteachan mar Eilean Donnain. Bha seo a’ gabhail a-steach seanchaidhean, goibhnean, bàird, seirbheisich agus luchd-lagha. Bha luchd-obrach aig a’ chaisteal fad na bliadhna, ach cha bhiodh na h-iarlan ann ach pàirt den tìde, oir bhiodh iad a’ caitheamh ùine aig gach aon de na caistealan aca. Bhiodh mòran a bharrachd daoine anns a’ chaisteal nuair a bhiodh teaghlach an iarla ann. Bhiodh an caisteal trang le cruinneachaidhean mòra, cùisean lagha, cuirmean agus gàirdeachas. Tha na lorgadh sa chladhach arc-eòlais a’ toirt dealbh beairteach is inntinneach de bheatha ann an Eilean Donnain. Tha e a’ toirt seachad fiosrachadh luachmhor mu mar a bha daoine beò agus ag obair. Tha cnàmhan bheathaichean a chaidh a chladhach bhon làraich a’ sealltainn gum biodh iad ag ithe sitheann, agus gun deach coin seilge a chumail aig a’ chaisteal. Bhiodh iad cuideachd ag ithe coirce, feòil-mhairt agus feòil-chaorach gu tric.   

Tha pailteas fianais ann gun deach nithean meatailt a dhèanamh aig a’ chaisteal. Chaidh mòran bhloighean de shoithichean crèadha ris an canar soithichean-leaghaidh a lorg ann an togalaichean taobh a-staigh iomall a’ chaisteil. 

Crucibles were used to heat metal until it was molten. It was then poured into moulds to make cast objects, such as brooches, pins and fittings. Tiny traces of metal are preserved in the fabric of the crucibles. Scientific analysis shows that smiths at Eilean Donan were making things in copper, silver and gold during the 14th century. A silver brooch, now lost, was found at the site in the 19th century. Recent excavations recovered copper-alloy pins, buckles, brooches, and other dress fittings.   

Chleachdadh na soithichean-leaghaidh gus meatailt a theasachadh gus an leaghadh e. An uair sin bhiodh e air a dhòrtadh ann am molldairean gus nithean a dhèanamh leithid bhràistean, prìnichean agus uidheamachd. Chaidh bloighean beaga bìodach meatailt a lorg am measg crèadha nan soithichean-leaghaidh. Tha mion-sgrùdadh saidheansail a’ sealltainn gun robh goibhnean ann an Eilean Donnain a’ dèanamh rudan ann an copar, airgead agus òr sa 14mh linn. Chaidh bràiste airgid, a tha a-nis air chall, a lorg air an làraich san 19mh linn. Lorgadh prìnichean, bucaill, bràistean agus uidheamachd èididh eile air an dèanamh le co-mheatailt copair ann an cladhach o chionn ghoirid. 

From the late 15th century, this part of the site was home to a smithy, producing ironwork. Much would have been structural or functional. Nails, bolts and roves used for building were produced, along with knives, keys and other household items. Some of the bolts may have been used in making or repairing boats, which was vital for the seaborne world of Eilean Donan. A massive grinding stone for sharpening was also found by the smithy, suggesting that swords were made or maintained at the site. Clumps of iron chain mail, including some with decorative copper links, were also recovered, alongside medieval iron arrowheads. Evidence for significant iron-working is often found at castle sites in Scotland. Iron-working and sword-making appear to have been hereditary specialisms. Smiths and other skilled craftworkers held a special position in medieval Gaelic society.   

Bho dheireadh an 15mh linn, bha ceàrdach an seo, a’ dèanamh obair-iarainn. Bhiodh mòran dheth structarail no pragtaigeach. Chaidh tarragan, boltaichean agus calpannan a dhèanamh airson obair-togail, còmhla ri sgèinean, iuchraichean agus nithean taighe eile. Dh’fhaodadh gun deach cuid de na boltaichean a chleachdadh airson bàtaichean a thogail no a chàradh, sgilean deatamach ann an saoghal mara Eilean Donnain. Lorgadh clach-ghleusaidh anabarrach mòr cuideachd ri taobh na ceàrdaich, a’ sealltainn gur mathaid gun deach claidheamhan a dhèanamh no a chumail suas air an làraich. Chaidh cnapan de mhàilleach iarainn, cuid le dualadh copair sgeadachail, fhaighinn cuideachd, còmhla ri cinn-saighde iarainn mheadhan-aoiseil. Gheibhear fianais air obair-iarainn shusbainteach gu tric aig làraichean chaistealan ann an Alba. Tha e coltach gun robh obair-iarainn agus dèanamh chlaidheamhan nan dreuchdan a bha a’ ruith ann an teaghlaichean. Bha àite sònraichte aig goibhnean agus luchd-ciùird sgileil eile ann an comann-sòisealta na Gàidhlig sna meadhan-aoisean. 

Objects made from bone and antler were also found at Eilean Donan. These natural materials were locally and widely available. They could be used for many different purposes, including making decorated handles for knives. Among the bone recovered by excavation are several small pig bones, each with a hole through the centre. These used to be identified as toggles for fastening bags or clothes. Until recently, identical objects were used to entertain children. This was done by stringing the bones, winding the thongs and releasing them to make a buzzing noise. The Eilean Donan ‘buzz bones’ were probably made from kitchen waste to occupy younger members of the castle’s household.   

Chaidh nithean air an dèanamh à cnàimh agus cabar-fèidh a lorg ann an Eilean Donnain cuideachd. Bha na stuthan nàdarra seo pailt anns an sgìre. Dh’fhaodte an cleachdadh airson iomadh adhbhar eadar-dhealaichte, a’ gabhail a-steach làmhan sgeadaichte a dhèanamh airson sgèinean. Am measg nan cnàmhan a fhuaras sa chladhach tha grunn chnàmhan beaga muice, gach fear le toll tron mheadhan. B’ àbhaist smaoineachadh gu robh iad airson pocannan no aodach a cheangal. Ach, gus o chionn ghoirid, bhithte a’ cleachdadh rudan den leithid seo mar dhèideagan cloinne. Chaidh an dèanamh le bhith a’ cur sreang tro na cnàmhan, a’ ridhleadh nan iallan mun cuairt agus gan leigeil às gus srann a dhèanamh. Is coltaiche gun deach ‘cnàmhan srannain’ Eilean Donnain a dhèanamh à sgudal cidsin mar spòrs do dh'òigridh a’ chaisteil.  

At the other end of the social spectrum is a captivating antler object. It's carved in the form of a hooded figure holding a book. This is a special type of object known as a gravoir, and it was used to create ornate and complicated hair styles. The fashion for parting the hair with gravoirs spread from Paris across Europe in the 13th and 14th centuries. Very few are known from the UK, and this is the first example recognised from Scotland. Intriguingly, this European type of object has been made in a very local material – red deer antler. The figure might be an elite and learned woman, referencing the owner of the gravoir. It could reference a saint or other religious figure. It is even possible that it represents Saint Donan, for whom the castle is named.    

Aig ceann shuas a’ chomainn shòisealta tha oibseact iongantach air a dhèanamh à cabar-fèidh. Tha e air a shnaigheadh ann an cruth neach a’ caitheamh cochall le leabhar na làimhe. Is e seo seòrsa sònraichte de nì ris an canar gravoir, agus chaidh a chleachdadh gus falt a sgeadachadh ann an stoidhlichean toinnte. Sgaoil am fasan airson falt a sgoltadh le gravoir à Paris air feadh na Roinn Eòrpa anns an 13mh agus 14mh linn. Is e glè bheag a tha air fhàgail dhiubh bhon Rìoghachd Aonaichte, agus is e seo a’ chiad eisimpleir a lorgadh à Alba. Gu h-inntinneach, chaidh an nì Eòrpach seo a dhèanamh ann an stuth gu math ionadail - cabar-fèidh. Dh’fhaodadh gur e bean-uasal ionnsaichte a tha air a riochdachadh anns a’ ghravoir, a’ toirt iomradh air an neach-seilbh. Dh’fhaodadh gur e naomh no pearsa cràbhach eile a th’ ann. Is dòcha, fiù, gur e Naomh Donnan fhèin a th’ ann, air an deach an caisteal ainmeachadh.   

Other objects also show a range of people living, working and playing at the castle. Two decorated gaming pieces were found at Eilean Donan in the 19th century. They would have been used for playing board games such as tables (related to modern draughts) or chess. These have been carefully made, by a craftworker practiced in carving bone. Recent excavations uncovered two further playing pieces, each made from a broken piece of pottery  These are make-do-and-mend versions of the bone pieces. They were made by someone in the household recycling a broken plate, bowl or jug.  

Tha nithean eile cuideachd a’ sealltainn raon dhaoine a’ fuireach, ag obair agus a’ cluich aig a’ chaisteal. Chaidh dà phìos-gèama sgeadaichte a lorg aig Eilean Donnain san 19mh linn. Bhiodh iad air an cleachdadh airson geamannan-bùird a chluich leithid taiplis (co-cheangailte ri dàmais an latha an-diugh) no tàileasg. Chaidh an dèanamh gu faiceallach, le neach-ciùird a bha cleachdte ri cnàimh a shnaigheadh. Nochd cladhach o chionn ghoirid dà phìos-gèama eile, gach fear air a dhèanamh à pìos briste de chrèadhadaireachd.  Samhail nam pìosan cnàimh ach le sùil ri glèidheadh is caomhnadh. Chaidh an dèanamh le cuideigin san taigh ag ath-chuairteachadh truinnsear, bobhla no siuga briste. 

After its heyday as a centre of medieval Gaelic lordship in the 13th to 15th centuries, the importance of Eilean Donan declined. By 1650, it seems to have been poorly maintained. While it was at times garrisoned by both Covenanters and Cromwellian forces, it played little part in the Civil War. By 1714 it was recorded as roofless and derelict. In 1719 it was used by Jacobite forces as a supply depot, and as a consequence was bombarded by British warships. It was eventually captured by British troops and blown up to prevent it being used again by Jacobite supporters. It stayed a ruin until the reimagining of the site in the early 20th century. This reimagining created the castle that stands today.

Thanks to archaeological excavations, we now have a better picture of the lost medieval heritage of Eilean Donan than ever before.    

Às dèidh àm a ghlòire mar ionad tighearnas Gàidhealach meadhan-aoiseil anns an 13mh chun an 15mh linn, chrìon cudromachd Eilean Donnain. Ro 1650, tha e coltach nach robhas ga chumail an-àirde ceart. Ged a bha e aig amannan na ghearastan aig feachdan Cùmhnantach agus Cromwell, cha robh mòran pàirt aige anns a’ Chogadh Chatharra. Ro 1714 chaidh a chlàradh gu robh e gun mhullach agus air a thrèigsinn. Ann an 1719, chaidh a chleachdadh le feachdan nan Seumasach mar stòr solarachaidh, agus mar thoradh air sin, thug longan-cogaidh Breatannach droch ionnsaigh air. Mu dheireadh, chaidh a ghabhail thairis le saighdearan Breatannach agus a chur na smàl gus nach b' urrainn luchd-taice nan Seumasach a chleachdadh a-rithist. Dh'fhan e na thobhta gus an deach an làrach ath-chruthachadh tràth san 20mh linn. Rinn an t-ath-chruthachadh seo an caisteal a tha na sheasamh an-diugh. 

Air sgàth cladhach arc-eòlach, tha dealbh nas fheàrr againn a-nis air dualchas meadhan-aoiseil Eilean Donnain na bha a-riamh roimhe. 

With thanks to the Conchra Charitable Trust who own Eilean Donan, and to FAS Heritage who undertook archaeological excavations at the site, for kind permission to reproduce images.  

Taing do dh'Urras Carthannais Chonchra aig a bheil Eilean Donnain agus do FAS Heritage, a rinn cladhach arc-eòlais aig an làraich, airson cead coibhneil ìomhaighean ath-riochdachadh.